2005 Tsunami Re-building Project
While the Re-building Team was in Thailand, they regularly sent us messages and pictures. The following is their story.
Click on the following dates to read more . . . March 4 - 5 - 7 - 9 - 10 - 11 - 12 - 13 - 14 - 15 - 16 - 18 - 19 - 20 - 21 - 22 - 25 - 27 - 28 - 29 - 30 - Apr. 1
March 2nd, 2005 — Countdown to Thailand!
We're now counting the hours until departure and I, for one, am incredibly excited and energized by this undertaking. It represents a bold step for Shawnigan, and I feel privileged to be the recipient of such trust. I especially appreciate the Headmaster's grasp of the big picture and his subsequent willingness to hand over the reins and say, "Go for it." In some ways it seems insane to put together such an undertaking in three short weeks, but perhaps there is method in such madness. Consider the following (from W. H. Murray, The Scottish Himalaya Expedition, 1951) which captures an essential truth for me:
"Until one is committed, there is hesitancy, the chance to draw back, always ineffectiveness. Concerning all acts of initiative (and creation), there is one elementary truth the ignorance of which kills countless ideas and splendid plans: that the moment one definitely commits oneself, the providence moves too. A whole stream of events issues from the decision, raising in one's favor all manner of unforeseen incidents, meetings and material assistance, which no man could have dreamt would have come his way. I learned a deep respect for one of Goethe's couplets:
"Whatever you can do or dream you can, begin it.
Boldness has genius, power and magic in it!"
Let the adventure begin!
– Peter Yates, Tsunami Re-building Team Leader
Thandi's message: I'm so incredibly excited... This morning in Chapel, I could really feel the School support and it's finally becoming reality for me. Hearing, especially about the School connection with the Knill family to the tsunami, made me realize just how important our task is, not just for ourselves, but the fact that so many others are relying on the Team. I must admit, I'm a little nervous... just venturing into the unknown can be a little intimidating. But my excitement overpowers the nerves. I can't believe tomorrow's my last day already. I've been so busy working to get ahead in my classes, and planning for the trip that I never stopped to really think about the trip itself. Now it's unavoidable. This time tomorrow I'll probably be sleeping, since we're leaving at 5:30 am... Not that I'll be able to sleep with all this suspense...
March 3rd, 2005 — 5:30 am
The Team headed out in a school bus early this morning to catch their first flight on the long trip to Bangkok, Thailand. They will stay there for a day or two and then make their way to Khao Lak to begin the building. The Team will be working along-side students from Thai vocational colleges (that are the same age as our own) and members of the Thai military who are undertaking to build 700 homes in disaster areas. Our students will build one of those homes and will dedicate it to the memory of John and Jackie Knill, killed by the tsunami on December 26, 2004.
March 4th, 2005 — 5:00 pm
Galen's message: I am sitting in a small internet cafe just down the road from the Bangkok Palace Hotel. The team arrives in 8 hours and I am really excited to see everyone.
The last five days has been a real whirlwind of meetings, sightseeing and planning. I spent the first day (Sunday) being toured by Oyz's mother. I was invited along to the only orphanage for autistic children in Thailand with her volunteer group, and to be invited to listen to a world renowned (UNESCO) Bhuddist monk speak at small temple.
The next day I was busy with ministerial meetings (Ministry of Education - Vocational Collegs) and visits to several vocational colleges. On Wednesday I flew to Phuket and was driven up to Kao Lak to survey the work site where the SLS team will be stationed, returning to Bangkok late Thursday night.
While the images of the tsunami on TV and the internet certainly capture the power of the wave that hit Thailand, nothing prepares you for the raw feelings that overwhelm you standing on the beach. Your eyes take in detroyed houses, hotels, restaurants and vehicles. The land on both sides of the road looks like a construction zone - the earth scrapped raw, jagged structures rising up out of the scarred sand.
I met one young man who lost his wife and neice. He is a volunteer helping struggling families - now that his landscaping business has been destroyed.
The few moments I spent touring Ban Nam Kem, the village where we will be building the house, solidified my purpose and resolve.
Point of information: Ban Nam Kem translates as "House of Salty Water", and is a fishing village in southern Thailand that is 25km north of Khao Lak and about 125km north of Phuket in Amphoe Takua Pa district, Phang Nga province. After the tsunami hit December 26th, this small fishing village of 10,000 residents was literally destroyed killing over 1,000 people, men, women and children, and left many more with the loss of their houses, businesses and every other personal possession they owned. A refugee camp has now been established that is home to 3450 survivors, including 200 orphans.
Warren's message: I am sitting in the Taipei airport and everything is very good, except a goat tried to eat my left ear, and Sam's right shoe lace. Have no fear, Noelle kicked it really hard.
Peter's message: Warren's wireless laptop has managed to find a solid connection in the waiting area as we bide our time in Taiwan. It's been a very long day--26hours of flights and connections, not including the drop-off and pick-up each end, by the time we touch down in Bangkok.
Today gave me some insights about various people in our group. Warren is the kid-magnet: He had a little Chinese boy just glued to him in the Vancouver airport, and they had so much fun together. Others joined in, including Noelle doing her version of a snake slithering under the seats in the transit lounge, and I can see already that there will be great chemistry whenever we meet up with little kids. No doubt this will play out when we visit some of the children's survivor camps near Khao Lak.
Logie demonstrated his resourcefulness, diplomacy, and initiative as he dealt with airport security in Vancouver. . .
Another emerging quality in the group is its musicality. Josh brought his guitar, and I've seen Wes and Oyz and Warren strumming it. And Logie brought his penny whistle. It's been a happy, if rather tired, little band of travellers keeping themselves amused in this waiting room.
March 5th
Galen's message: A full and busy day was had by all today. Peter Yates is writing up his thoughts as we speak—see his message below for a log of the day's activities. Tomorrow the team is up early for our second day in Bangkok. We are scheduled to leave at 7:30 and visit the vocational college in Ayudhaya where we hope to get a few Thai cooking lessons. The afternoon should lead us to an outdoor market and finally a traditional Thai puppet show in the evening.
We were feted by our Thai hosts, taken to the Grand Palace for a royal tour (literally in the sense that it is a royal place) which included viewing the Emerald Buddha, the world's largest single jade sculpture. I loved the stories about the monkey figures that, even when in disguise, are recognizable in part because it never wears shoes (who needs shoes to climb trees?). One of the common figures was half monkey and half lion, a combination of cleverness and power. At lunch we watched some Thai dancing, and marvelled at the incredible flexibility and beauty of the women's hands. In the afternoon we did a tour of Vimanmek Mansion which, because of its open design and cross ventilation, is easily as comfortable as an air-conditioned building. I want to incorporate some of the design features into my next house. Our short visit to the Mabunklong Center (HUGE mall) was all too short, and I am looking forward to shopping and bartering there when we return at the end of the month.
Our group has been stellar in every way: I couldn't ask for better travelling companions. Time to sign off and grab some shut-eye. Sawatdee krub!
March 7th
Peter's message: If today is Monday we must be in Phuket! Yesterday, however, deserves an update. Bangkok is such a bustling city. On the one hand, frankly, it is very dirty and uncomfortably crowded. We have been treated to an insider's view, though, and I have gained some appreciation of what makes it such a vibrant and interesting place. We began the day with a visit to temple adjacent to what used to be a massive and sprawling temple ruins, destroyed by the Burmese many years ago. The temples that used to be entirely covered in gold were scraped clean, and fires razed even the bricks-and-mortar construction.
Next stop was at a vocational college where we were treated to a superb Thai meal, and a number of our merry band took a turn at cooking some of the different dishes. I love green Thai curry!
We had quite a long (hour?) trip by van in the skilled hands of our hired drivers. I think that learning to drive in Thailand must be something a person must grow up with, because it seems more intuition and awareness than conscious thought. That said, I always felt totally confident and secure and safe, albeit perhaps rather exhilerated. I cannot imagine ever feeling confident enough to drive in Bangkok myself, though, and that is a rather humbling thought.
We went to the Sunday market, and it was overwhelming. Imagine little stalls, jam-packed with every kind of wares, and narrow lanes (maybe 2 to 4 feet wide), spread over an area the size of downtown Duncan. And then imagine thousands and thousands and thousands of people jostling shoulder to shoulder amongst all those little lanes. I felt like I was floating along a slow-moving and dirty river of human debris, occasionally eddying out in a market stall, at times being swept along, and often simply jammed in a spot with nowhere to go and nothing to do but wait for nature to take its course and flush me along. Often I had no sense of where I was, and I would simply keep moving until I emerged in some place that allowed a chance to take some sort of bearing, whereupon I would take a deep breath and plunge back for a foray in a new direction. I'm glad I went to the market, because I think it is good to know such places firsthand, but I have no desire to ever return there.
One rather surreal detail bears relating. Given that I speak no Thai, I found myself surrounded by white noise. Suddenly I became aware that I was hearing something familiar, namely the sounds of Country & Western music. Three Thai men decked out as cowboys were playing guitars and singing in perfect English. They were hawking cowboys hats, silver belt buckles, leather vest, as well as various "authentic" Indian arts and crafts. (Ayla had a good laugh.)
Thandi's message: This place is crazy! I'm in a little internet cafe in Phuket right now, and I only have a few minutes before we leave for Khao Lak. We spent the last two days in Bangkok, and yesterday we arrived in Phuket. It wasn't that hot in Bangkok, but Phuket is unbelievable. Something like 39 degrees yesterday . . . Last night we went to Patong Beach, which was one of the worst hit by the tsunami, and it was incredible how much they've built it up since. You can see a bit of damage and rubble, but otherwise, the people have recovered extremely well. We walked around the market at night with some Thai students from the Vocational College, and they said that the tourism industry has suffered the most. There were barely any tourists compared to how it is usually. Anyway, time to go to Khao Lak. This experience has been incredible so far, and I can't wait to see what's still to come.
March 9th
Galen's message: The connection speed is awful here in Khao Lak—usually 28 bps—so getting you photos will be tough. I've sent one or two for you now. All is well—tomorrow is our first day at work and we are pretty excited.
Peter's message: The aftermath of the tsunami is beyond words. The clean-up has been underway for 2 months now, but knowing this actually increases the magnitude of what I'm seeing because many workers and big machines have only put a dent in the devastation.
Two places along our route stand out in my mind. One features a huge gray launch, perhaps 50 feet in length, with "POLICE" emblazoned along its side. It has been incongruously tossed up against a jungle backdrop, several kilometers inland. Thus far the boat is too big to be moved by any machinery or trucks in the region, and there is talk of turning it into a kind of museum piece to remind future generations of the tsunami's power. The second place didn't actually catch my eye, but it overwhelmed my imagination. It is a body of olive-drab green water, perhaps 3x the width and 10x the length of Lake Omar. It lies a couple of kilometers back of the beach, and proved to be a gruesome gathering point. The geography of the land in this spot conspired to create a backwater, and when the wave receded hundreds and hundreds of bodies collected among the debris. It was the worst of the body recovery sites…the lake had to be pumped down in order to find the corpses…I can't really imagine.
We took part in a ceremony where 15 new houses were officially turned over to their occupants. We took our place among the vocational college teams, were warmly welcomed. One SLS Team member spoke on behalf of our group, with another translating, and I was so impressed by their composure and the power of their words.
March 10th — Thanks to Galen Loiselle for all the photos!
Thandi's message: I'm exhausted! Today was the first day on the job site. In what felt like 50 degree weather, we completed a lot of work, and stayed on schedule (which our boss didn't think we'd be able to do.) We basically spent the whole day making support beams for the concrete foundation. Tomorrow we'll be pouring the cement. We started work at 9 AM, and finished at 5 PM, with 10 minute water breaks ever so often, and a lunch break at noon. So we pretty much worked through the heat of the day, reapplying our SPF 45 sunblock now and then. We have to be really careful about sun/heat stroke. The worst thing that could happen is not being able to work because we have to lie in bed all day. During lunch, one of the generals of the Royal Thai Army joined us and presented us with special pins to wish us well on our endeavour. There were cameras that were filming us the whole time... it was pretty intense. I really like building the house though. I finally feel connected to the people and this devastation. A few people commented to me at one time that we're only building one house ... how much could that possibly help? Well, the amount of support that they've already received is phenomenal. But it's still not enough. Building a house is a lot of work, but once you actually witness the amount of damage that the tsunami has done, it's completely worth it. Every little bit helps. An entire community was wiped out where we're building a new house, with thousands of lives lost, the only remnants being a few solid houses that barely managed to withstand the force of the wave. I want to be able to help everyone that has suffered here, but if we can even help just one family, it's enough. Knowing that we accomplished what we set out to do is enough. Staying on schedule is going to be quite tough. Our boss told us that it takes 25 days minimum to finish a house. We don't have that much time. But we're determined to complete it before we return to Shawnigan. Well, it's 9:15 PM right now, and I'm on an incredibly slow Internet connection on the hotel computer in Khao Lak. We're out in the middle of nowhere, and the Internet has been crashing constantly, so I'm going to save this blog while I can... I think I'll go to bed and sleep for as long as I can before we go work again.
A few other things that have happened since I last blogged: — Went swimming at a beach for an hour on the way to Khao Lak... ate lunch using a banana leaf as a plate... thought that was pretty cool. :) — Went to a ceremony for the completion of some other houses. Warren spoke to the other students about our expectations, etc. — Walked on the beach of the hotel we're staying at and saw the devastation. Some parts of the hotel were completely wiped out. Our hotel lost about 60 rooms, and a few pools.
Quote of the day: "Nothing cool happened today." – Warren
Tip of the day: "When using spray sunscreen, don't spray directly onto your face…It hurts." – Sam
Wes's message: Today was the first day of 3 weeks of intense labour in the blistering heat. We climbed into the back of a military transport vehicle at 8:00 and left the hotel for the job site. During the drive, we passed areas of extreme devastation; ruined buildings, rubble, garbage, boats on dry land, and completely flushed land. The construction here in Thailand is quite basic compared to that of Canada, only two power tools (chop saw and a dull skill saw) and almost nothing is pre-fabricated. To keep from the sun, we lather on sunscreen and cover up with clothing, hats, and sunglasses. The day passed by quickly. We were all busy either creating re-bar framing, building concrete forms or digging. Also, we met a four-star general this afternoon who greeted us all with souvenirs and thanks. It is pleasing to begin our mission, and we look forward to a good night's rest for what tomorrow might bring.
March 11th
Logie's message: This is the first entry that I have posted, because I just haven’t got around to accessing the Internet until now. I have been charged with telling you about our day today. We left the hotel at 7:30 this morning. We worked all day along-side about 15 students from the vocational college in Bangkok. It was a really hot day today; it was about 37 degrees, unfortunately that’s not in Fahrenheit. We worked at a number of different jobs—some people spent most of the day tying off re-bar and making the base structures for the concrete pillars we’re going to be pouring tomorrow. Some were painting, others were part of a bucket brigade, transporting concrete, water or soil, and others were busy trying to flatten out the soil to make the concrete floor, etc. Our building is coming along right on schedule, the supervisors didn’t think that we would be able to finish the one house in three weeks, but the way things are going at the moment, it looks like we will be able to complete the house no problem. Mr. Yates’ friend, Gary, joined us today and he was a real asset to the building effort. The support that we have been given during our effort to complete this challenge has been amazing, and it just makes all of us feel that we are really making a difference. The amount of appreciation that we have been shown while we have been here has really been great. But aside from all that, we’re having a lot of fun and we’re all looking forward to a good night's rest to get us prepared for the tasks that await us tomorrow.
March 12th
Peter's message: The Land of Smiles – The Thai people are so friendly. Everyone seems to have a ready smile, including the military and the wealthy and the bureaucrats. Even the car horns blurt out a rather friendly and very loud honk that is invariably used just to alert others. By contrast I find horns at home tend to be indignant or angry or impatient. And the horns here seem to match the drivers, because I have yet to see any real tension on the roads despite the fact that this is the most intense and challenging driving I've ever experienced. I wonder what it is about Canadian and American drivers that so often sparks road rage?
Tsunami Prediction – There was another tsunami predicted for today at 10:30am. The "prophet" was a local shaman who seems to have set himself up for a guaranteed win, because he also told the villagers that he would do his best to divert the tsunami through prayer (sometimes you can have your cake and eat it too). We disregarded his dire warnings and went to work as scheduled, but apparently the vast majority of the villagers along this stretch of coast moved themselves up into the hills last night and waited out the day.
World Wide Participation – There are people here from all over the world, and some of their jobs are very specialized and new to me. A policeman from Sweden arrived yesterday with his Springer Spaniel that is trained as a cadaver dog. As the name implies, it is a dog trained to search for bodies, and there are only a few such dogs in the world. They have waited till now because there has been so much death here that the dog would be constantly pointing out places where bodies had lain because the scent lingers for some time. Now that such smells have begun to fade the handler and his dog can get down to the macabre business of locating corpses and body parts. (By the way, he was a very amiable and conversational fellow, and it was a very interesting rather than morbid discussion.)
Canadian Flag – Our Canadian flag is flying alongside a Thai flag at our job site, and it is apropos of the growing camaraderie displayed by the Shawnigan and Thai students. People passing by invariably check out the flag and the non-Thai workers on the job site. We're getting a fair amount of press, including TV cameras filming the 4-star general who pinned Royal Thai Military buttons on each of us, and on-camera interviews with an Australia Channel 7 / BBC journalist who is making a documentary. Apparently there is the equivalent of more than $400 million donated by British citizens just sitting in the banks, and the purpose of the documentary is to pressure the various relief organizations to get out and spend the money on tsunami relief. Certainly there is little evidence of the largesse that's been gathered from around the world, so I hope the man can stir things up.
Harvey's Here – Harvey Wallace arrived today. He's the SLS alumnus who was SCUBA diving just off the coast here when the wave rolled through, and his account was written up back in January. There's a real proud-to-be-Shawnigan feeling here, and it's good to have Harvey's support and feel the way he still identifies with the School. Also, his first hand account and presence provide yet another way to "make it real," although I think it's fair to say that the devastation we drive through every day has already shifted everyone's perception.
March 13th
Galen's message: I talked in Chapel a few weeks ago about the two qualities of patience and flexibility. I didn't realize at the time just how necessary they would be. I mean, I have backpacked all over the world and lived in a half dozen different countries. I have sampled some of the best and worst foods our planet has to offer. I have met some really nice people and some not so nice ones as well. Surely my life experiences had prepared me for this little "project" in Thailand!
Up till now, my life has revolved around travelling and experiencing different cultures (often through the food) in what I always perceived to be interesting countries. Usually I had read a book or seen a neat looking picture that captured my imagination. Always the romantic, I would never really prep too much before a trip. This, I always rationalized, would allow my trip to be untainted with others opinions and points of view. For those of you who really know me it would be more believable if I just told you I procrastinated until it was too late and I was on the plane.
Working alongside Thai students and instructors has opened my eyes. Their love of life is enormous and they make no beef about their lot in life. Both young and old have an infectious smile that is sincere, welling up from the deep sparkles in their eyes. Every truck or scooter we pass on the way to work waves, and I can't count the number of people that have thanked us for our contributions. Several people have stopped and asked both staff and students various questions and opinions for everything from documentaries to personal curiosity. Perhaps our Canadian flag is too noticeable?
The fifteen young men that our ten Shawnigan students are working alongside have been, and are training to do this same work every day—for the rest of their lives. Working construction here doesn't carry the same romantic resonance as it does in Canada. This morning, one of the young guys came into the house next door where we take water breaks and store our gear. He had just stepped on a nail—not surprising if you had seen how thin his flip-flops were. Flip-flops seem to be standard issue on every job sight we have seen. I asked Oyz, our Thai student, if he had ever had tetanus shot—"No" came the reply. Yikes! Within a few minutes he was being taken up to the Military First Aid centre for his shot. As for protection and safety, well ear doesn't exist, eye—some guys wear sunglasses—especially if they are welding, foot flip-flops are readily found, and finally head—I spotted a few hard hats. I think you get the point.
I am finding a whole new reservoir of patience, as it has been tested daily. Several planning meetings have occurred in which we have discussed the next day's work, only to show up in the morning to discover that the work had been completed after we had gone home. Nice, you say. Great for the house and project, I agree. It does make the meetings seem unnecessary and it also highlights the communication challenges that we face on a daily basis. Much of our interaction is half sign language and half watered-down English/ Thai that the other party doesn't really understand. Numerous tasks have been started and then stopped or re-done, leading to frustration on both sides. Sometimes we have misunderstood—sometimes not. We look at a job and think it would be best done this way, only to be told it is wrong. Sometimes we finish a job and are all standing waiting to be given the next one. I feel, at times, that I am being too pushy with the supervisor because it seems as though I am constantly asking for the next job. At the same time we are all feeling this desire to complete the house in the short amount of time that we have left.
With my patience being tested, I am finding that the flexibility to roll with sudden changes and different construction styles is also improving. I have realized that it is not my job to criticize or judge. There are many different ways to get the same task done and, as a guest, I owe it to my host and teachers to be as flexible and patient as I can. I am, after all, just a volunteer.
March 14th
Warren's message: It has been a good chunk of time now and everyone is really starting to settle in. The work is going very well and it is a lot of fun. Today, for the first time in five months, it started to rain here . . . a lot. Well, it seems rather odd to be writing on this strange posting system, but I am having a little bit of down time so I thought I owed it to my fan club—all three of them.
We were visited by a 4-star general at the job site a few days ago and that was a real highlight. He told us a little bit about the history of the area we were building in and it was awful. It was the hardest hit area of Thailand, that is to say, 1/3 of all the Thai people who died here were from this village. There is a great sense of joy though, when you look around to see many other Thai students working busily around you. There are about 7 houses being erected within eye-shot while we work on two simultaneously. Sometimes I stop thinking about the fact that so many bad things have happened to these people, and just enjoy working and talking with the students. One of the most enjoyable things is trying to communicate with the Thai students. Today, I accidentally accepted a small bottle of "Brandy Thai" as Pun called it. He was so excited to give it to me by the time he pulled it out . . . I had to take it. (ed. note: I'm sure Warren passed the bottle, un-opened, to a Team leader.)
Well, I think that is all I have to share for the moment. And, by the way, there was no goat in the Taipei Airport . . .
March 15th
Ayla's message: When a statistic becomes people and those people become familiar, you know that, without a doubt, you're involved. Being in this wonderful country with its people who live their lives in a way that North America has long forgotten has been the most eye-opening experience.
Standing on white sand and having the warm ocean wash upon your feet and knowing that that same ocean caused the mind-boggling destruction stretching for kilometres behind you, is a feeling that words can do no justice to. Standing in the face of such beauty and power, there is little else you can do than to stand in awe.
For all we think we know and for all of our accomplishments, the only thing that really matters is our eternal instinct to survive. The Thai people are a perfect example of this. The joy that they still express on a daily basis, despite having had their entire lives washed away, never ceases to amaze me.
From the moment we arrived, our hosts have been nothing but accommodating and happy and full of smiles. The students we're working with are bursting with energy and constant deeper contentment that I've ever witnessed in anyone back home. There is one teacher who has become my new idol. He is so comfortable with himself and his life that he seems to be magic. The wisdom he possesses seems to radiate from him.
This country is amazing. The senses are constantly experiencing a new sensation. The calming, soothing music that always seems to be playing, and the sound of the ocean seem to be symbolic of the very contented feeling that is the essence of Thailand. The gentle, persistent heat and the warm caress of the sun on the skin are a constant comfort. The food, I have to say, is amazing. You are always being surprised because, here, you bite into something thinking that it'll taste like one thing and it's a totally different taste.
March 16th
Peter's message: Having reminded the group about sending messages, I feel a bit of self-imposed pressure to keep up my end of things. I'm just back from an evening with Colonel Chatchai of the Royal Thai Army: an absolutely wonderful meal that began with a beautiful sunset and included barracuda, rock cod, prawns, several vegetable dishes, and a soup that was so spicy that every sip produced its equivalent in perspiration. Jason Dorland would have been sweating buckets under his eyes. Then we moved on to a local bar/nightclub. Our time there was limited to foosball, and darts—such is the price of being married and rather conservative and old fashioned by nature!
Today was a great learning day in terms of construction because we were plastering the brick wall with a mortar mix and there was a steep learning curve from complete klutz to reasonably useful mason. My grandfather, a master mason, must be smiling from above. Also, we were able to work inside, out of the sun, if we wanted. Tomorrow we do the outside of the house. I am very impressed by the quality of the finish on the walls, because it is done with very simple tools and little more than a sharp eye when it comes to tolerances and measures.
It is great having Julie and Pantaree here with us. They fit right in immediately, and their enthusiasm is self-evident.
I have attempted to ensure that every single member of our group has phoned home or (at the very least) has e-mailed family, and I hope that any parents reading this message will send me a note if they are feeling out of touch. I do understand how it is sometimes difficult to express what is going on, and that there may be a certain desire to keep family and friends at arm's length in order to immerse oneself in this experience. As I've been known to remark on several occasions, however, it's not all about "me." Family deserves a priority.
Galen's message: It will be one week tomorrow since we have started work in Ban Nam Kem. It certainly feels like the end of the tunnel is in sight. The roof is now on, and we have almost finished both the side walls. Most of today was spent focussing on the plastering of the bricks with a very thin concrete coating, which most of us had a go at.
The biggest shock we have received was in learning that the roofing tiles that all the buildings are to be covered with are all made from concrete and asbestos. We have taken all precautions imaginable short of donning space suits or leaving completely. When the roof went on our house we left for the afternoon—and asked the Thai students to do all the cutting out back so the dust would not be blown in the building. We also completely sprayed down the inside of the building before we allowed any of our group inside. We were lucky enough to be given some top-of-the-line masks from a Dutch DNA forensic specialist who is here for victim analysis. Since then, we have insisted that everyone wear their mask at all times.
Sadly, the house across the street started putting their roof on yesterday afternoon and the wind was blowing in our direction. It was nothing too serious but we decided that is was better to be safe than sorry. As a result we packed up our bags and had an early day. The same thing happened again this afternoon, which is not a bad thing as we all appreciated a bit of time out of the sun! The good news is that after tomorrow all the houses in our area will be done soon.
The most frustrating thing to come out of all this is that we learned that Canada exports something like 97% of its asbestos to S.E. Asia, where it is put into such products as cheap concrete roofing tiles. Here we are trying to help a struggling community only to realize that we are putting poison right back into their community and environment. The kicker is that a specially made cheap medical mask would make a huge difference in protecting the workers—but the masks are difficult to find in Thailand.
Wouldn't it be nice if our asbestos-supplying Canadian companies supplied masks with their shipments?
March 18th
Galen's message: Today was a long day—partly fueled by the fact that this is our eighth day of work in a row. Heat and humidity were sapping our energy—leaving more than one of us needing some time out of the sun. The last three days have seen a few of the students interviewing local residents and some very interesting people that we have come in contact with.
At one point last night, we had six of the Team sitting around the table in the restaurant, eating ice cream and talking, discussing and interviewing four members of a team of Thai doctors from the Bangkok Children's Hospital.
We were very sad to have to say goodbye to Julie yesterday and Pantaree (Joy) tonight. So now we are back to 14.
We are all excited about tomorrow because Gary has arranged a trip out to the Similan Islands for a snorkling and scuba trip!
March 19th
Galen's message: It's 11:45 pm, and I have just gotten in from an amazing day. We were up at six this morning which was quite impressive when you consider that this was our first "day off" since leaving Shawnigan more than two weeks ago. We spent a glorious day of diving and snorkeling in the Similan Islands, which are 60 km off the coast of Khao Lak (3.5 hours by boat).
On our first dive Peter, Gary and I saw an enormous manta ray, followed in quick succession by two white tipped sharks. The dive took us around a beautiful rocky reef and through several short caves. On our second dive we spotted two more sharks, six sting ray's, a napoleon something or other, a sea snake, and a moray eel.
Our students went through the "Discover Diving" course and by the end of their second dive had impressed their instructors with the natural ease, talent and poise they have come to demonstrate on a daily basis.
We also went snorkeling, swimming, hiking and feasted on more delicious Thai food.
After nine long, hard days, we truly felt relaxed and now have recharged our batteries-ready for what tomorrow may bring!
March 20th
Galen's message: Here are only a few of the pictures from the day—late last night we were invited to dinner in Phuket by General Lertrat. We had to quit work early in order to be in Phuket for 7 pm. We ate at an amazing Thai seafood restaurant—where the courses just kept coming, each one more impressive than the previous. Truly an unforgettable meal.
Tomorrow we get a bit of a sleep in . . . I'll leave you in suspense and let one of the students tell you what is going to happen!
March 21st
Peter's message: Hummingbirds – Hummingbirds have numerous connotations, all positive. They have phenomenal energy, zipping about the countryside on blurring wings, pausing to sample and appreciate the nectars of many flowers along the way. Although just a tiny being, each single hummingbird looks after the cross-pollination of thousands of flowering plants, perpetuating and developing the health and beauty of the planet. When one shows up in our presence, we pause to marvel at its energy, its productivity and its beauty.
From the moment of our arrival in Thailand, we have been cared for by our very own hummingbird. Mrs. Sivika Metavachaikul zips across the countryside monitoring Thailand's 400+ vocational colleges. Despite her busy schedule she takes time to connect with individuals and to appreciate the progress of their various different projects. She is a bright and vivacious woman, quick to grasp ideas and possibilities, and just as quick to turn them into reality. By welcoming Shawnigan into her sphere of influence she has connected people from across the globe, and already a myriad of new relationships have blossomed forth.
At a little dinner the other night, our group presented Khun Sivika with engraved silver earrings and a brooch. They were selected by Ayla and her family, and are the work of a Nuuchunulth artist. The design? A hummingbird, of course.
Gary (Our Kiwi Team member) – I've known Gary Easthope since 1975. He has, for the past couple of years, been the general manager of operations in Indonesia for Sobek (the largest adventure tourism outfit in the world, catering to a wide range of abilities in rafting, hiking, cycling, jungle trekking, and various specialized excursions). He is a very talented man, and his credentials include stints as a professional diver (construction, oil rigs, and salvage), corporate instructor and marketing manager for Outward Bound, and age group (U19) coach of the NZ swim team. His "permanent" residence is a 37' yacht named Solong, presently moored in Auckland.
When I told Gary about our tsunami rebuilding project, he offered to fly over from Bali and join us. In part, it was a chance for the two of us to connect, but most of all he came to lend support to a worthy cause. He was quickly adopted into our group, and I know I speak for us all when I say that he has enriched our experience in a host of different ways.
Ko Similan – We worked 9 days in a row, and were ready for a break. Through Gary and his contacts we set up a day trip to the Similan Islands, regarded by many as one of the premiere diving areas in the world. The Islands lie approx. 30km west of Khao Lak, or 4 hours on the boat we chartered. The diving was amazing. None of the students had done any SCUBA diving, and most of the group elected to do a Discovery SCUBA program. This involved a short course on the basics, and two dives under the close supervision of experienced dive masters (2 students/instructor). Meanwhile Gary and Galen and I ventured into deeper waters, and were rewarded with a huge manta ray, half a dozen white tipped sharks, at least 20 small stingrays, a Napoleonic Wrasse and a moray eel. The coral took a real beating in the tsunami, but the waters were crystal clear (at least 100m visibility) and it was an enchanting world to visit.
March 22nd
Sam's message: Just about 20 feet or so from the work-site, there is a body of water very similar to Lake Omar. During my lunch break, I sat down near the water's edge and asked Son (or "sun-sun" as Kelly affectionately nicknamed him) what had been there before the tsunami hit. According to sun-sun, it had been a quarry where much of the village's income was generated and as we continued our lunch-time chat, he related to me all the many hardships the people of Khao-Lak have faced after losing their jobs and families. I also learned more about Son himself and will be sad to see him go home tomorrow (he has been in Khao Lak for 2 months). Small connections like these make all the frustrating language barriers disappear and I think that everyone on the trip will agree that we have learned just as much from the Thai students as we have from our teachers at home.
On the quiet drive back, I could see the unmistakable look of satisfaction spread over the tired (some dozing) faces. I could also see the most brilliant, sinking sunset melting into the palms that lined the road. The natural beauty that surrounds us here can only be compared to the spirit and strength of everyone affected by the tsunami and I am reminded of this every time I see a smiling face wipe the dust off their hands and lay another brick.
"Come on up for the rising/come on up lay your hands in mine/Come on up for the rising tonight" —Bruce Springsteen
Galen's message: Yesterday was a very special day for all of us here in Thailand. We started out with a much-needed sleep in, eating breakfast at eight and then meeting in the lobby for 9 am. We then went downstairs for a press conference that was hosted by General Lertrat, and attended by various Thai and international media reps.
The purpose of the press conference was to announce an initiative by the Royal Thai Army to send 10 children, who had lost a parent, from Ban Nam Kem to Canada for two weeks. Shawnigan Lake School was asked to host the children for the entirety of their stay, which we have agreed to wholeheartedly. Peter has been working closely with General Lertrat and his staff to organize the trip which will take place in April and May.
We then had the opportunity to meet the 10 students (ages 14-19) and they joined us to work for a few hours on the house in Ban Nam Kem. During the morning and early afternoon we worked along side the Thai vocational students from Bangkok, the owner of the house and his family, and the 10 Nam Kem students who will join us at Shawnigan for 2.5 weeks. It was a powerful day—watching our students teaching, learning and listening.
We were also interviewed by Reuters International who is taking an interest in the story. We were told that they will run this story in the next day or two.
March 25th
Galen's message: Peter and I have been unable to access the School Intranet for the past number of days—the kids may have also had the same troubles...
We had our last day of work yesterday, culminating in an amazing seafood barbeque feast put on by the Don Muang Technical College and Amnat's family (the man whose house and shop we have been building). It was remarkable to behold especially when you realize just how little the average Thai earns a day. The average Thai student on our site makes around 150 Baht/ day. This works out to roughly $5 Cdn/ day. Amnat and his family have basically had no income since they lost their small shop on December 26th.
They were so proud to be able to host us inside their newly finished building. It was an indescribable feeling to be sitting on the freshly laid tile floor and look around at all the beaming faces, both Thai and Canadian. The freshly painted walls, resplendent with a mural (thanks to Noelle, Warren and Wes) and the newly connected electric lights illuminated the plethora of dishes overflowing with freshly caught fish, prawns, squid, rabbit, snails and fruit.
The final farewells reflected many a long face and giant bear hugs. It does sadden me to report that my laptop has crashed, I am crossing my fingers that the hundreds of photos stored on it are not lost for good. The curse of digital I guess.
My new Thai phrase from last night is Sabady Sabady — which translates as "Que Sera Sera – Whatever will be will be." A healthy approach to all aspects of life.
Peter's message: Enlightningment – The thunderstorms I've experienced here are wondrous events. Sheet and fork lightning leaps across black, black skies; thunder rolls, booms, cracks; torrents of water sluice the landscape.
I should have bought a lottery ticket the other day, because my luck was strong. A jagged bolt of lightning struck a (short!) power-pole at the very moment I walked past. I felt like I'd been detonated-nearly leaped out of my skin, much to the amusement of a number of people who witnessed the scene.
Tailor Made – One of the great bargains of the world must be the tailor-made clothing that is readily available in Thailand. My new official tailor is Monty, an Indian man who runs a shop in Khao Lak. Talk about speedy service and great quality: I was measured on one evening, had a fitting the next night, and all of my new garments were delivered to our hotel the next morning.
Monty is quite a character. Originally from India, he has lived in Thailand for 10 years or so. In addition to his native Punjabi he speaks fluent English and Thai… and passable German, Danish, Norwegian, Swedish, Japanese… reckons he needs 10 languages in order to serve his clientele properly. At this time he is starting from scratch, having lost everything in the tsunami. He used to have 3 shops on the go, with who knows how many sewing machines in little factories around the area. I visited the tiny place where his goods are manufactured at present, and it was unbelievably crude and spare. It was so incongruous to see my wool cashmere dress pants being sewn by Monty's "main man" who was clad in old shorts, a t-shirt and flip-flops, working in this open-to-road room with corrugated metal walls, a roll-up garage door and a concrete floor, sewing machines set on tables alongside a small motorcycle and various family effects, while mother and young daughter looked on with rather shy and smiling faces. Prior to the tsunami Monty employed as many as 65 people. He is a small man with a big heart. He decided to stay in Khao Lak in part because people depend on him for employment and in part because he loves the area. I found him scrupulously honest and fair. He is very supportive of us because we are here to help, and he is involved as a volunteer himself (sewing aprons for an upcoming tsunami survivors craft fair, for example). I asked about his background and it turns out he used to be a music teacher in India. Fascinating man.
March 27th
Galen's message: I have some good and bad news today. The bad news is that I have burned my feet quite badly kayaking today. My own fault I guess. The good news is that we have all had an amazing first day in Krabi Province.
We are actually staying in the small coastal village of Ao Nang for the next few days. The remarkable thing about our arrival yesterday was spotting Conor Clarence walking along the beach. We had a lovely dinner with his family and were able to catch up with Tessa as well, who is recovering well from her shoulder surgery.
Today was only our third day off in three weeks and boy, did we have a good time. Seven of us caught a long tail boat across the bay to Railay Beach where we spent the day playing. I went with three others on an amazing kayak paddle along the coast, through some small caves and landed on a secluded pristine beach. It truly felt like we were paddling across a post card.
We finished off the day with a nice dinner over-looking the Andaman Sea, a lighning storm playing behind the clouds on the horizon.
Noelle's message: I am in Krabi Beach, enjoying my final few days in Thailand before heading back to Shawnigan. For the past couple of days we have moved from one side of the spectrum to the other. We are now located in a hot tourist destination, geographically unaffected by the tsunami, and emersed by European and American tourists. Contrast to our daily drive, landscaped with destruction, this morning we took a Long Tom out to Hong Island where we went snorkeling and kayaking through pristine ocean. Our military rations are replaced by streets of restaurants providing an assortment of worldly cuisine. Now we shower to rinse the salt water from our hair, instead of vainly scrubbing the relentless grim and tattooed dirt after the days work. Tomorrow is our final day in this 'paradise,' before we return to Bangkok and begin our journey back to Shawnigan.
Ayla's message: As the trip comes to a close and we've finally been given a chance to reflect and catch up with ourselves I find the thoughts running wild through my head to be scattered and overwhelming. There is so much to say about what we've done, how it's changed us, what we've learned, and most of all what our brains are turning into the never-ending souvenirs… memories. The completion of the house was an unfamiliar bittersweet for me. It felt great that we'd gotten done what we'd set out to do, but there was this feeling of melancholy that I couldn't figure out. I started to think about what could have been causing it besides leaving the friends we'd made and this breathtakingly beautiful country. I realized that it was the fact that yes, we'd built a house, but for Thai people it was far from over. They will be rebuilding for years. After all, they are trying to rebuild the thousands of lives that were washed away with the tsunami. The dinner we shared with the vocational students and owners of the house gave me a good feeling; one of finality. I realized then that we'd helped them. Now they had a source of income and now they were ready to start their lives over. For me, this has been an experience of getting back to being a human being-of learning about how we are all the same no matter what. I always knew that this was what was right to believe and I thought I'd believed it. But I realize now that being in the bubble of Shawnigan, and before that in an isolated community, I hadn't been tested on this belief. I know now that it's about being human. Despite the language barrier, the cultural differences, the socio-economic gaps, I connected with these people. That's what it was; we connected we became friends. I've learned a lot about myself. I've learned a lot about how our culture works and I've learned what I don't want to be like. The memories will last forever; the long days working in the sun; the relaxed chats with the students; biting into something and expecting one taste and getting a totally different one; our nightly check-ins; gazing at the amazing natural beauty; but most of all the many, many times the Thai people showed their amazing personalities in displays of generosity, joy, spirit, and resilience. I could probably go on for ages about the details but I won't. After all, I am in Thailand and I'm craving the oh-so-good Thai green curry.
Peter's message: Some of us checked out Railay yesterday. It is famous for its rock climbing (300 bolted routes according to one one writeup) but it also has a splendid beach and easy access by sea kayak to some other splendid beaches. My favourite memory of the day was taking a turn at the helm of a longtail boat, which was part of the deal in negotiating our trip to Railay.
Today our whole group went to Hong Island. "Hong" means "room" in Thai, and Hong Island refers to a unique geological phenomenon whereby rain erosion from above and sea erosion from below combine forces and hollow out a lagoon (or room) within a karst (limestone) formation. In the case of Hong Island, we paddled through a cleft in the rock, and emerged upon a huge turquoise lagoon encircled by steep cliffs. My only concept of a hong comes from reading "The Beach" (haven't seen the movie yet but, yes, it's the Leonardo diCaprio film).
Thandi's message: While I type in this perfectly air conditioned internet cafe in Krabi, I can't help but feel a sense of accomplishment and triumph combined with exhaustion and heat stroke. Yes, we completed the house. Our house, proudly labeled the Shawnigan Store, will be used by one family as a fishing supplies store and will be a pharmacy for the community. Not only did we thoroughly complete one house, we also began the first stages on a second house which will be used as the living space of the family.
The last few weeks have been unforgettable. I've built a house, and through this endeavour, have also built friendships between people who are all here for the same reasons as myself: to help. This experience being in Thailand has been about living in a culture that is quite the opposite of living in Canada. But once we're on the job site, it's not about contrasting the two cultures. While we did in fact learn about the Thai culture while we were here, our sole purpose was and always will be to help.
I feel like I've connected with the Thai students on our job site. The only way to really connect with other people is to be on the same level. You can't absorb the way the reporters have glorified us. If anything, I feel like the reporters interrupt us more then anything. Once we feel we've really connected with the people, someone comes along and reminds us that we're on camera. They should be focusing the attention on the Thai students. After each working day, they return to their camp and sleep in a tent, while being attacked by swarms of mosquitoes I'm sure. Meanwhile, we hop on our army truck to return to absolute paradise in our hotel, with our air conditioner.
Another thing I've learned on this trip is the diminished want and need for "stuff". The people here live with only the bare essentials. The students on our job site work with flip flops, and barely any safety equipment. I feel like an alien every morning I arrive with my hard hat and sturdy work shoes. Yet they survive. There is no need for excess in anything in life, and the Thai people have mastered this concept. But that doesn't mean there's no need for important things like safety equipment, which is why I plan on continuing to help once I return to Canada. Just because the trip is nearing the end doesn't mean they don't still need the help.
Warren's message: Today I got a sun burn on my eyelids. I never thought to put sunscreen there, but I guess I should have. We are so close to finishing our trip that it is hard to force yourself to sit down and write about what you will be able to say in person in a few days. The work is done know and I believe we put in the equivalent of three working weeks, which is satisfying. We completed the house, which felt fantastic and we took the last day to paint a mural on the wall of the building. I am looking forward to a few days of relaxation before we go back to Bangkok. It is by far the most hectic city I have ever visited. I think it should be a requirement to have a religion of some form or another before you get into one of those cars because you have to pray for your life every few seconds. That is all.
NEWS OF AN EARTHQUAKE! – Galen's message: It's 4:00 am and I can hear Sam gently snoring behind me. He looks surprisingly comfortable considering that he is sprawled across 4 chairs. It's quite the sight really. We had what you could call a very eventful night. We are hunkered down in the Health clinic/student affairs office for the night at the Krabi Technical College. Sam and Logie have claimed chairs, Josh has some nice hard tiles that he can call his own, the girls have two of the beds from sick bay pulled together, Warren and Wes are in the next room and, somehow, Peter scored a nice comfy cot all to himself.
I was just getting ready for bed when I received 3 phone calls in the space of 2 minutes from various friends and contacts here in Thailand advising me of an earthquake and that I should turn on the news. In very short order we realized that Indonesia had had a large jolt and that there were Tsunami warnings for coastal Thailand. Our friend, guide, colleague, and Vocational College representative Jerdruedee, or "Tue" as she is known to us, has been with us on this last leg of our trip and was quick to confirm the evacuation warning. We quickly woke up the students, who packed a quick "get-a-way" bag and we headed across the road and up to higher ground. Within 10 minutes the Assistant Director from the Krabi Technical College arrived with his pick-up truck and wisked us back to his school. The college is 25 km from the coast and elevated above sea level, so we all feel quite safe and looked after.
The "flight" from Ao Nang was very surreal. One part of my brain was rationalizing that our location was very sheltered and that we were "most likely" in no danger, while the other side of my brain was pumping adrenaline into my blood stream as fast as a bilge pump on a sinking ship. People were streaming out of our hotel, babies in arms, suitcases behind them, talking anxiously to each other. Two British girls came up to me at one point asking about the situation as CNN was being dubbed over in Thai and none of us could really get a clear handle on the situation. At the restaurant across the road and up the hill, I met an elderly couple from Norway. They were frightened and confused. Not speaking Thai or English, they had been awoken by knocking on their door and left the hotel, following the exodus. The women had tugged on my shirt and pointed at the TV asking for information. I explained as best I could in German and broken English, hoping that I was making a bit of sense about what was going on, and recommended that they seek higher ground.
When the pick-up arrived, there was only enough room for our group of 13. (Oyz has returned to Bangkok to spend some time with her family so we are smaller by one). This was very hard to swallow, knowing that we were leaving people behind that we might not see again, but also knowing that our sole responsibility was for the group. As the truck chugged up the hill towards a police roadblock, Peter and I both looked at each other and agreed that, in 10 seconds we would both feel a whole lot better. If you had been standing there, at our imaginary line on the hill, you would have heard two very loud and long sighs of relief.
Two things stand out for me. The first is the "realization" of just how traumatic this whole evening must have been for Thai and Expats who survived or were affected by the December 26 Tsunami. To be reliving the horrors and literally running for your life once again must have been terrible. The second is the scene as our truck rounded the bend on the way out of town and we drove past the beach. Two safety boats lay at anchor, their sirens pulsing in warning, and all I could see was the boardwalk along the beach lined with people—looking, waiting, watching and taking pictures.
I was impressed by the mature, calm and collected presence all the students displayed the entire night. We shall face the new day with confidence and patience.
Galen's message: All is well at this end of the world. We had another glorious day of snorkeling, sun-tanning, kayaking and jungle trekking on Hong Island. Tomorrow we are booked into a seminar at the local Vocational College in the morning. The day after we head back up to Bangkok and then we are down to counting the hours until Canada!
Peter's message: The Things They Carried (with apologies to Tim O'Brien for usurping the title of his excellent book - ISBN 0767902890) – Nowadays, in our protected lives, we seldom experience either real urgency or the prospect of unknowable danger. Last night's tsunami warning provided a rare opportunity.
The first phone call warning of a possible tsunami roused me just after midnight: did I know about the earthquake off Sumatra, 8.7 on the Richter scale? On goes the TV: "Breaking News-possible tsunami." Tell the students to pack a grab bag and be ready to leave in 5 minutes. Urgent knocking at the door opens to hotel staff with worried faces rousing guests and urging them to evacuate immediately.
I pop down to the registration desk and withdraw passports, money and tickets from the safety deposit box, then head straight back to my room to pack necessities. Surprising how little one truly needs in an emergency evacuation. I took my toiletries with contact lenses, cell phone, satellite phone, knife, headlamp, pants and a shirt, camera, GPS, and four bottles of water from the minibar. I donned hiking shoes rather than sandals.
Hindsight is always 20/20, but a day later I see nothing that I overlooked—nothing that would have proved especially useful or irreplaceable. I wonder to what extent the same is true for my students because when I surveyed what they carried it seemed very little was brought by design. A couple of people had energy bars and water—good!—and Ayla remembered her passport which was not in my possession at the time. Maybe, though, it's not a lack of forethought; maybe the simple truth is that in this part of the world a person needs very little in order to get by, and since I had the documents and money there was little else to worry about.
I asked everyone to reflect on the experience and see if there might be some learning to tuck away for future reference. What would they do differently if they could replay the events of last night? Despite an uncomfortable 4 hours of sporadic sleep on a stretcher in the infirmary of the vocational college where we evacuated to, I'm rather pleased to have firsthand knowledge of an impending tsunami and a real-life check on my own state of readiness for the unexpected. I believe that a person's most valuable assets are self-confidence and resourcefulness, and last night was an affirmation.
Oyz's message: [Oyz lives in Bangkok and was an important Team member since she also acted as an interpreter.] I can't believe its over. I have been back in Bangkok for four days to get everything done and be ready to go back. It has been a wonderful experience in Thailand. I can't believe I've learned so much more about my own country. The whole perspective about Thailand for me has also changed… completely!
My whole life, I never have to do anything like we did for the past few weeks. I had so much fun learning about the country and the people. This trip taught me a lot of different things and I am really happy that I chose to take this opportunity to come with the group instead of wasting my whole Spring Break fooling around.
At the end of this trip, I realize that there are a lot more things in Thailand that need to be done. A lot of things here that need to be developed. The living of the people is not at good standard. That really made me want to come back and be one of those people who are trying to make Thailand a better place. I've also realized how lucky I am. We were working with some of the vocational college students, and I found out that they hardly use money for anything that is not necessary. The shoes that they wear to work are flip-flops… not very safe! They have to fight to live, unlike us.
Overall, it was a really great picture to see Canadian and Thai students working together. It was really fun to see people trying to communicate even by hands! It was really fun to see Canadian friends trying new things and eating Thai food! The most impressive thing was that we've reached out goal! We finished a house!
Home at last! Relief was written all over parents' faces as the Team came through the arrival gate in Victoria this afternoon. Although tired and travel-weary the Team managed big smiles and entertained us all the way back to the School with stories from their month away.
A monumental thank you is due to Peter and Galen, who shepherded our Team through all the travel, the work, and the adventures. Palmam Qui Meruit Ferat!