2011 Thailand Project

The Project - We are helping to construct a living quarters for 3-4 people, just a main room, a bathroom and a covered porch. The foundation is concrete; the walls are concrete block, finished with cob (a mud and straw mixture) on the outside and smoothed concrete on the inside; the roof is a 2x4 framework tiered with strips of bamboo and thatched with palm fronds; and the floor is glazed tiles. It is a labour intensive undertaking, every task being done by hand using primarily basic tools such as buckets, hoes and trowels. There are a couple of hammers, a handsaw and a tape measure on site, as well as an electric drill and a hand-held grinder, and the spirit level is a length of clear plastic tubing filled with water. Nonetheless, the workmanship is true and durable, and the house we are building will serve for many years.

There are two dozen Thai students and nine teachers who have come to join us on the project, which is a great honour and speaks volumes about the positive experiences created by the EDGE teams who have been here in the past, because we have arrived at the start of school holidays and thus the Thais are also volunteers.

Blogs - March 10 - March 15 - March 17 - March 31 (Reflections)

Ban Natoe Blog 1 - March 10

Giselle - After 20hours of flying, plus airport time, none of which was spent sleeping, I arrived in Chiang Rai. The hot sticky breeze was a warm welcome, and the cold of Canada was happily left behind. There could be no better introduction to the culture than the amazing Thai cuisine. Our hosts took us out for dinner and multiple dishes were presented: deep fried shrimp cakes and fish, plus a kind of cactus, offered unique flavours, but nothing compared with the spicy entrees. Flavours combusted on the tongue and felt as though flames were licking at the back of my throat, and my eyes filled with tears but it was amazing. The mango and sticky rice that followed is simply the best dessert on Earth. Food aside, Thailand is absolutely beautiful and I can't wait to see more of its treasures.

Johnny - It is hard to focus on one single thing that I look forward to most. I think that the number of new experiences that are coming towards me over the next three weeks will easily top any past events in my life. I am especially looking forward to living the contrast to modernized, western life in remote and rural northern Thailand. I have been told that the Thai people, even those living in extreme poverty, are the happiest people that they have met. The idea of happiness in poverty is abstract and amazing all at the same time, and I am excited to see it in person.

Tala - I'm driving through the hills of northern Thailand, and the driver has us listening to Glen Campbell. It's amazing what a small world it can be. Other than the music choice, however, Thai culture is very different from the North American culture I'm used to. Thais seem unbelievably grateful and much less self-centred than we are; their traditions and ways of showing respect make me feel very self-conscious of my behavior and how I act when I'm around the Thai people. It's not that they are huge gestures of respect that people are expected to show--no, it's much more discrete--but there are so many little things that we're not used to. Right now what I'm most looking forward to is getting to know the Thai students who we are going to be working with. They were so excited to greet us, and their enthusiasm is very encouraging. My goal for the trip is to learn from the Thai people and adopt their attitude of gratitude and acceptance. Discretion and respect are paramount in Thai culture and the people are so kind. Thailand is so different from anywhere I've ever been, and I love trying to pick up on all of the cultural nuances. The language will take a little longer to pick up on though; I think I've got about seven words so far. And on that note, "rah-tree soi-wat." We've got a long day ahead and I want to get a good night's sleep.

Calvin - Even though we have been in Thailand for less than two days, I have been completely amazed by the culture that surrounds us. Today we visited the White Temple (Wat Rong Khrun) in Chiang Rai. It is one of the most fascinating buildings I have ever visited, and the place emphasizes the astounding attention to detail that the Thais pay to religion, art and beauty. The exterior of every building was painted white and heavily decorated with inlaid pieces of mirror, and the place sparkled under the sun so that it was almost too bright to look at without sunglasses.

Max - Exploring the two temples we visited today made me realize how dedicated the Thai people are. I took every opportunity to take part in the rituals, including ringing the consecutive bells for good luck and bowing to the Buddha to make a prayer. The art work at the White Temple in Chiang Rai was absolutely mind blowing. We have been in the country for under 20 hours, but have accomplished so much that it is unreal.

David - The Thais eat almost the same thing for breakfast, lunch and dinner. They have rice with some type of curry--or at least his has been my experience thus far--as well as a soup. The food itself is very good; it a wonderful combination of sweet and sour and spicy. Everyone in the group has seemed willing to try almost everything.

Trevor - Although I may end up with an ulcer or internal bleeding from the intensity of the spicy food, it is really, really tasty and I should enjoy it while I can because I assume my tastebuds will be gone by the end of the trip.
Wikki - I knew an elephant trunk was big, but that's about all I really knew. I discovered that there are two holes in the end--nostrils; I never thought about there being two holes, not one. The trunk ends are snotty and spitty. First, it is a nose and, second, they are eating with it (like licking our fingers), so of course it is snotty and spitty! And there are all these little hairs on the outside of the trunk, like whiskers. Who knew? The unnerving part is that the elephant's nose is bigger than my leg, and strong enough to pick me up. I also rode on one, which might sound a bit scary but they can't bite you or reach you with their noses while you on their backs. I'm sure they could roll over and squash you but that didn't' seem likely. When I fed my elephant later he grabbed my bananas and sugar cane with his trunk. Man, life is sweet. Good night, Ban Natoe. See you tomorrow.

Vivian - The first 73 seconds of the elephant ride was spent being completely, ridiculously, overwhelmingly stoked on life (I have a video of us spazzing) and the rest of the ride talking about how cool our lives were at that moment. The elephants were smaller than I expected, and they were so cute. Rachel and I named ours Collbert and he was pretty legit (except that he snorted/spat on me, but I forgave him, no worries). All in all it was a day for the books.

Ronna - Although outside the air is hot and humid, inside the van is cool and fresh. The day is nearing an end and we are heading for Ban Natoe, our destination. Outside, the air is becoming increasingly smoky and the hills are carved by the hand of man. Fires burn the landscape all around us as we pass farm after farm the sight is similar to that of a volcano with small twisting rivers of lava. The sun wistfully smiles through the smoke in a dark shade of red over the horizon. Apprehension increases as I realize that I am further from home than I have ever been. Everything that I have ever known is light years away.

Rachel - We have done so much in the last two days that it's unbelievable, but it seems like our main activity has been eating. I have never eaten so much in my entire life. Every meal is a feast and everything tastes fantastic. Tangy and spicy soups, perfectly ripe mangoes, and a ton of rice that is 6 times more delicious than the rice back home, are just some of the things we have eaten lately. The Thai people are so generous and are always offering us an endless amount of food.
Kelsi - Waking up in Natoe was a completely new experience, just like the rest of this EDGE trip. I woke to the sounds of the jungle and noises of the Thais beginning their work day. Today will be our first pm on the project, and I am looking forward to working with the rest of the EDGE team and with the Thai people. Today we were granted a sleep-in, but tomorrow we will join with our Thai hosts to feed the animals and make the breakfast. The Thais are very friendly and they welcomed us with flowers. They are smiling all the time, and they make a huge effort to communicate with us.

Tala - The Shower: No matter where you are in the world, taking shower after a long day of work is one of the most rewarding things imaginable. The showers here are a little different from what I'm used to, but I don't know if I've ever enjoyed a shower more. In each bathroom stall you have a squat toilet as well as a giant barrel of water that is filled from a faucet in the wall. There's a plastic scoop that you use to pour water over yourself. That first dump of cold water is so refreshing and it washes away the fatigue of the day. The feeling of being clean here is just as satisfying as under any Moen shower head at the Four Seasons. I think that by the end of our ten days in Natoe the barrel and scoop will have become my new best friends, and I don't know if I'll ever go back to having hot showers on a hot day. It's so much more refreshing to feel the cold water exciting my nerves and it really wakes me up. Moral of the day: a shower's a shower, whether at the Four Seasons or at an outhouse in rural Thailand, and one should never take for granted the refreshing power of water (or "nam," as it's called here, which also happens to be the nickname given to me by the Thai students).

Peter - Our team is off to a great start, with everyone embracing the newness of their experience. My personal belief is that the best way to "be" in the world is in the moment and with a sense of wonderment and awe. Although this is my ideal (as opposed to my everyday reality) I find it comes more naturally when I am on the edge of my comfort zone, in unfamiliar territory and unable to take things for granted. One of the best parts of leading an EDGE trip is sharing experiences with students who are fully engaged and, consciously or not, shifting their paradigms.

Natoe Blog 2 - March 15

Peter - Right this moment I'm thinking about Thai food. Not that I'm hungry--we are so well cared for!--it's just that I'm very mindful of how delicious and diverse and plentiful are the meals provided by our hosts. In the past couple of days we have enjoyed entrees such as green Thai curry with coconut milk, Massoman beef and phad Thai, desserts such as steamed coconut/banana pudding and miniature "Timbit"-type treats, sweet fresh fruits such as yellow mango, watermelon, rose apple and papaya, and local native foods such as wild pig curry and ant-egg soup (the tapioca-sized eggs make delicious little pops when gently compressed in the mouth). The Thais do not normally feast like this on a daily basis, but here at Natoe the lengthy food preparation and the fine dining are important parts of the shared experience. And in addition to the food itself, I am keenly aware of how enjoyable it is to slow down and socialize over meals. The rhythms and the priorities of Natoe are good for body, mind and soul.

Meg - The weather broke today. Literally, the skies opened; the water ran down the hills along the paths carved out by the erosion of the rains that have come before. The air has been hot, heavy and still for three days. I have watched sweat carve paths down my dusty arms; I have wiped it off my forehead, smearing it into my eyebrows. Last night we watched lightning trace spider webs across the sky. Thunder rumbled for minutes at a time, echoing and re-echoing in valley after valley. We brought our laundry in overnight, but no rain came. We worked all through another hazy day, but not until an early evening trek over a nearby ridge did the first drops kiss the dust on our shoulders and the tops of our toes. By the time we returned to the village, we were soaked through, our clothes sticking to the red dirt paste forming on our bodies. The villagers watched incredulously from under their thatched-roof awnings as the tall, dripping "falungs" strode jauntily through the puddles. The air is cool now; it smells like green and blue. The thought of splashing under cold water from my bucket "shower" is enough to raise goosebumps on my forearms. Night creeps in early from behind the overcast skies, and instead of hillside fires I see white, smoky columns rising up in front of the mountain ridges, two shades of blue darker than the sky.

Olivier - The work in Ban Natoe is some of the most tiring manual labor I have ever done. The hardest task by far is mixing concrete. We use it for nearly everything so we unfortunately have to make it regularly. It requires sand and rock and cement, and only a bit of water. We stir it with hoes until we attain a perfect balance of color and texture. I find the mixing work very draining, but the energy of the Thais is encouraging. They are always optimistic and they keep smiling even when something goes wrong.

Max - Being around Thai people is an experience of a lifetime. They are so welcoming and they always try to make others happy. I was washing dishes the other night with Calvin and Vivian and a few Thai girls, and I learned that Thai people prefer being white instead of tanned. This made Calvin feel very good about himself. As we talked, dishes did not seem much of a chore; instead they were more of a chance to bond and exchange culture. It took a lot of work with the language barrier but with patience the Thais finally got the idea of how cold Canada is. They could not believe that it was possible to live in such a cold climate, but at the same time I was thinking how impossible it would be to live here in the hot season without ever having any a/c.

Trevor - The effect of globalization in Thailand is truly remarkable. Most stores carry only products unrecognizable to a westerner, except for Coke. Coca-Cola manages to get its products to the hill tribe shops in Chiang Rai, Thailand's most northern province, and the idea that local Thai people, most of whom are paid less than CAD$3/day, are affected by the reach of the Atlanta based Coca-Cola company seems ridiculous to me. I have also noticed many Thai imitations of western products; for example, at a shop in the Natoe village I saw a package of cookies that looked just like Oreos. I was excited to eat them because, although I love the food the Thais have been preparing for us, I still miss the food I am used to. Anyways, I bought the cookies and chomped down on the first one, and realized it was nothing like an Oreo. In fact, it tasted more like fish than cookie. So despite the great outreach of western companies you have to watch out for Thai imitations because you generally won't get what you expected.

Wikki - FOOD - Even though we have been here for a week already, I still can't get over the food. It seems that there are soooo many other things that I could be writing about, but the food continues to amaze me. There have been a few different women who have taken turns to run the kitchen, and every time we eat I can taste the love they have put into their dishes. We have all taken turns helping in the kitchen. Well, I should say "learning" in the kitchen. Some of the tasks we have helped with definitely took twice as long with a group of us working than if done by just one of the Thais. But still they teach us. A few days ago, four of us worked on some sauce that was a side sauce to go with the chicken and rice. In it was ginger, garlic, chilies, sugar, salt and pepper. It took over an hour to make! And it was only a side sauce! Right after they finish making one meal they are into making the next. With a lunch or dinner consisting of rice, soup and two sides, I would bet there would be 25-30 ingredients. Fa tells us that the types of meals we are having were once cooked for regular meals, but because of the time needed to prepare them they are now usually only served at special occasions. I feel extremely lucky to have had this chance to eat a different Thai dish at every meal, and I continually find myself saying, "Now this is the best thing I have ever eaten."

Kelsi - The Village - Making the trip to the village of Ban Natoe is quite exciting. The rural farms and fields of harvested crops are a huge contrast with the supply stores that appear directly beside the road. Yesterday the water was turned off at the Learning Centre and the director offered to drive us to the village showers. A few of us girls climbed into the back of his truck for a thrilling ride to the village. The showers turned out to be a large tub of water situated next to a pig pen that was underneath a hen house. We had been directed to bring extra clothes, but until then we didn't realize why. Since we were out in public view it turned out we had to shower in our clothes.

Rachel - Our crazy shower experience in the village, with a pig pen two feet away and chickens running everywhere, gave me a new appreciation for proper showers. Thailand is full of new experiences and I can't wait for what's next.

Giselle - It's been days since we landed in Bangkok but it feels like only a few hours. What we have accomplished so far is astounding. The house we are building already has walls, window frames and a roof. Every day begins at 6:30 and we continue to work under the glaring sun until 4pm. Then comes the mad rush for the shower, but (as others have described) showering here is much different than in Canada. For me, with my mass amount of crazy unruly hair, a lot of buckets are required. And yesterday's shower in the village is a shower I will never forget, shaving my legs in front little Thai boys and various farm animals. As Kelsi and Rachel and I walked back with our wet hair and wet clothes, I felt part of Thailand. The lifestyle here is more rural and simple, but it's more rich than the life we live in Canada. I feel that people here know how to get more out of life and are, overall, more aware of how much they really have.

Vivian - Mt. Everest - Okay, so the title is a little misleading, but the roof was pretty high and I did stand on it. We laid the grass thatching on the wood rafters, and I got to be manly and hammer nails (pretty cool). It wasn't as sunny and hot today, which was a little disappointing because being warm is nice after the icy coldness of Canada. After work we went hiking, and in the middle of the hike it started pouring rain, and now all my laundry is soaked. One thing I miss about home is washing machines. Anyhooo, I have 23 insect bites on my left leg (I counted and I am not exaggerating) which look like terrible welts or something. Yum. Strangely enough, though, I am happy here (where the showers are always cold, the dirt is everywhere, and one of the cats left us a gift of a huge dead rat on our floor last night)

David - Pay in Thailand is very different from pay in Canada. A skilled local worker is paid 80baht/day, which is about CAD$2.50. The things I brought with me on this trip represent two and a half years worth of pay for these people. However, things are relatively cheaper here. While 80baht is very little, it is still possible to afford most things that are essential for living, whereas it would be impossible to survive on $2.50/day in Canada.

Tala - Losing Track of Time - I've lost track of what day it is. The days just sort of run together and there's really no need to know. It's kind of nice being able to have that freedom and not need to think about what I need to be doing tomorrow or the day after. I think my favourite part of the trip is getting to know the Thai students. Even though most of them speak barely any English, they still want to be friends. My Thai is coming along slowly--"cha cha"--and the Thai students always giggle when I try to speak Thai. Tonight when I was attempting to wash some of my clothes in a bucket by the bathroom stalls, some of the Thai girls saw me and exclaimed over what I was trying to do. They ran over and took what I was washing out of my hands and started scrubbing it avidly. One of them called out to her friend to get some more detergent and soon there was a whole group helping me do my laundry, despite my protests that I was fine. It really shows how willing people are to help you here when they think you could use a hand. It wasn't like they saw me struggling and felt obligated to help. No, they genuinely just wanted to help. Today made me appreciate the generosity and kindness of the Thai people, as well as the convenience and efficiency of washing machines.

Ronna - Although people here live very different lives from what I'm used to--they eat, wear and play different things--we are the same. As their expression goes, "Same, same--but different." Because we know so little about each other, it helps us to open up. Being judged is no longer an issue. Every night at 7:30 we get together, Thais and Canadians, and play games. Sometimes we are taught and other times we are the teachers. Regardless of which, I end up laughing. Sometimes everyone laughs and yells and screams, and the fact that we have so little in common no longer matters because we all laugh in the same language. I know if there is one thing that I will never forget from this trip, it is the people. Their genuine carefree attitude is inspiring.

Calvin - After four long, hot days of building, the sun was becoming a bit of a nuisance for me. Luckily, the thatched roof was placed on the hut today. Although I was feeling a bit sick, I had a great time nailing the woven grass sections onto the rafters. The rickety beams of wood beneath my feet added some sense of risk to the project, but looking at how comfortably and calmly the Thais were working allowed me to rid myself of any nervousness. Another amazing part of the experience was seeing the Thai workers patience with every miss-hit nail and every dropped bundle of grass thatching. They lightly laughed and helped me finish the job. It was great to help build the roof, but the special part of the experience was working together with the always sympathetic Thais.

Johnny - When I sit down at 6:00pm for our daily dinner, it’s not the main courses I look forward to (even though it is absolutely incredible); it’s not bringing to a close another hard work day, and it’s not even the consistently wonderful desserts. The thing that I look forward to at our 6:00pm meal times is having the opportunity to talk with wonderful Thai people. Not only do they teach us about Thai culture, but also the local hill tribe culture and traditions, and that is extended into what we experience on our day to day trips. We are creating relationships that I sense will last for forever (my future trips to Thailand and the Thais future trips to Canada). This trip has been amazing so far, and it certainly is moving fast. I know I will miss our Thai friends when we leave this amazing country.

Peter - Today we drove to Mae Salong in the back of a song-thaow (a compact pickup truck with two passenger benches in the box and a cover overhead). I pulled a bag of wintergreen lifesavers from my backpack, and offered them around. Mali, one of my favourite Thai girls, popped one in her mouth, and moments later her expression was priceless. Her eyes opened wide and she began to fan her mouth. "Spicy, spicy," she gasped. Surely she must be joking! I have seen this girl eat unbearably spicy-hot Thai dishes with complete immunity, yet she found wintergreen lifesavers overpowering. She lasted about 20 seconds, then turned and stuck her head over the side, ejected the lifesaver, and turned to apologize profusely for being unable to eat the spicy candy. Go figure.

Natoe Blog 3 - March 17

Peter - If it's true that every cloud has a silver lining, we are sitting beneath the mother lode. This is the famously "hot, dry season," and it is little consolation to hear the Thais insist that it very unusual to have rain at this time of year, especially as it's been now been nearly 3 days of almost steady downpour with the temperature hovering steadily at around 15C. I am poorly prepared for it in every sense, but I take heart from our Thai hosts who continue to smile and simply get on with life. I love these people!

The blogs below emerged from one-on-one interviews between our EDGE team members and their Thai counterparts. Everyone was fully engaged, struggling valiantly to find the right words and listening with great empathy and effort, and it made for a particularly memorable evening.

Trevor - Quan has been studying at the Natoe Learning Centre for 3 years, and she aspires to be a teacher after she completes her 4 year program. When not doing her farming duties she likes to listen to music--Thai music mostly, but she also listens to some English songs.

Calvin - Dacha, or Shane, is 20 years old and grew up in Chiang Rai with 2 older brothers and a sister. He has been studying at Natoe Learning Centre for the past 3 years. He likes to sing as well as play basketball and soccer. His favorite aspects of this place are working with his peers and meeting international groups like our EDGE team. He aims to one day become an auto mechanic, and thanks to the opportunities he has been given at the LC he is confident that he will reach his goal.

Olivier - Tali is a 20 year old Akha girl. She has only one sister, who is much older. She has been studying at Natoe for only one year, but plans to complete the full 4 year diploma program. Fish farming is particular interest. Asked if she reads the news, she said she keeps up with current events online. She has strong opinions about Thai politics; she dislikes the current prime minister and wants the previous prime minister restored to power.

Max - Nitnam has been at Natoe for 3 years, and says that she is very fond of sleep. Her nickname is Nit ("Needt") and she is very close with all the girls here. She likes English music is very into Tom & Jerry cartoons. I was shocked to learn that she knows the words to "Time to Say Good-bye" by Andrea Bocelli, which I don't really understand because the words are Italian. She really likes to listen to music, and she played some of her Thai and Chinese music for me on her MP3 player. I'm glad I had the opportunity to meet Nit.

Tala - Na-Na speaks virtually no English so I have resorted to my Lonely Planet phrase books to bolster the little bit of Thai I have picked up. She is 18 years old, has 1 brother and 3 sisters, and speaks fluent Mandarin. When I asked about her birthday she wrote down 14/09/2535. Another Thai student explained that the Thai calendar begins with the death of Buddha, so right now we are in the year 2554. Who knew that Buddhists were so ahead of the rest of the world? Na-Na likes studying at Natoe and learning English. She doesn't have a boyfriend because she is focusing on her studies, and when she completes her 4-year diploma here she wants to continue at university. In her free time she likes watching TV and listening to music, especially guitar. She also likes cooking, dancing and drawing. Na-Na is such a sweetheart and I wish I could communicate with her better. She gave me her e-mail address and maybe someday I'll know enough Thai and she'll know enough English that we can easily keep in touch. Meanwhile there's always Google Translator.

Ronna - Mali is a tiny explosive ball of energy. She is 20 years old and comes from a nearby Akha village, and next year she will be a member of the first group of students to graduate with a diploma from the Natoe Learning Centre. She says she comes from a small family with only 1 brother and 2 sisters, and she has a boyfriend back home. She wants to become a teacher. Although her English is not exactly fluent, she was able to answer a number of my questions. She likes slow rock, funny-happy-movies and the colours blue and white, and her favorite food is noodles. We exchanged e-mails and she wants me to send her pictures and stay in touch.

Rachel - Ban was constantly giggling over her embarrassment about her poor English, but she actually speaks it fantastically. We talked about songs she enjoys, and we talked about our families. She has 3 brothers and 3 sisters, and she could not comprehend that I am an only child. She told me about her 3-year boyfriend who is in his twenties (although PDY says she told him that she is focused on her studies and has no time for boyfriends). The only thing that I found incredibly hard to communicate was how rowing works. It was amazing getting to know Ban in a one-on-one conversation.

Giselle - Thailand offers unique food, a very different climate, and a whole array of foreign objects and ideas, but it is the people who make Thailand what it is. May is 19 years old, and the youngest of 4 brothers and 2 sisters. Her dream is to become a primary school teacher. Our languages may be different but we both enjoy music and romantic movies. Unlike me, she could not find something that she disliked, and her answers seemed humble in comparison to mine. I was surprised to learn that she does not wish to marry and have children; she said that her friends Gale and Pam were all she needed. Perhaps her modest reply reflects the different priorities and values of Thailand, which to me seem more intrinsic.

Vivian - Gal is 17 (and much shorter than me) and she wants to go into agricultural management. When studying at Natoe she only sees her parents and 2 sisters twice a month, which is kind of like my life back at Shawnigan. We were able to talk about a surprising number of topics, given our immense language barriers: everything from movies to our futures (but I never realized how difficult it is to explain what the Lion King is without making it sound ridiculous). It was wonderfully strange that even though we could barely understand each other and lived on opposite sides of the world, we were still able to share and chat as if we were old friends.

Kelsi - Dome is 18 years old, and speaking with him was an opportunity to learn about someone else's reality. He speaks Thai, English and Dutch. His home is more than 20 hours drive south from Natoe, in Chumphon. He has 2 older brothers, 2 older sisters, and 1 younger brother, and one of his sisters is getting married this week. When he graduates from Natoe he wants to become a teacher and to travel.

Johnny - Asaa is 23 years old and comes from an Akha village not far from Natoe Learning Center. He is one of six siblings, and has completed his 2nd year of studies. Asaa wishes to become a school teacher, but both his parents are farmers and he must work in order to support himself going to school as well as his family, so it is not an easy task; however, Asaa, like most other Thai students, does it without complaints or fuss. Asaa is a soccer player and loves to watch it on TV with his schoolmates when time permits. His favorite team is Lancaster.

David - Although it is the "Dry Season," we have had 3 full days of rain in a row. While it means extra free time, it also means that we will be unable to complete the house to the full extent that we originally planned. Other than the rain, everything about Thailand continues to amaze me. One such thing was the morning market, a gathering that occurs daily and where everything from foods to school supplies are sold in open air stalls. The first thing I noticed were the smells; there were many aromas, some pleasant and some repulsive, as I went around the market. The second thing I noticed was the prices: almost everything could be purchased for under 180baht (CAD$3). Visiting the market was a truly unique experience for me that I cannot compare to anything I have known before.

March 31 - Reflections

Meg - Natoe Learning Centre: the Essence - Turn left off the highway heading north up Thailand. Keep driving. Pass rice fields and mango orchards; swerve for dogs lying in the road; hold your breath when you squeeze between oncoming traffic and a motorbike. Tiptoe along a mountain ridge and look down either side. Now, turn off what you think you know about Thailand. Turn off the year, your water, your lights. Switch off your iPod.
Meg - Arrival - We've reached out destination that we do not yet know. Vertigo has settled deep between my ears, and runs back and forth between my eyes. Stiff necked, dry mouthed and sea legged: we slide more than step from the van. The light is bright, yet soft. From a bridge over a muddy river, a sea of brown smiling faces swims in front of me. Teachers, students, director and dog press forward, features indistinguishable to my sleepy eyes. White crescent-moon smiles and "sawasdee kah"s flood over me. Handmade bouquets of long stemmed chrysanthemums are pressed into my hands. One, two, another. Whites, yellows, purples and reds, their familiar papery stems clutched in my fingers as we press our backs against the vans, wishing there was one more step back we could take. There are no handshakes, no hugs. This is overwhelming, a display of emotion untainted by ceremony or circumstance. This is welcome, our host giving more and more, so eager to share what they have. It makes me realize that I spend far too much time worrying about the value of what I have to share with my friends. Like those times I feel sorry when I have friends over and my lack of chairs means that most of us end up sitting on the floor. I spend far too much of my days looking on the Internet at bike wheels I can't afford. If my time in Natoe is to have a value greater than a new hut for the Learning Centre, new friendships formed across the ocean and new lessons learned through new experiences, it will be the reminder of an old lesson: when you share something, its value lies not so much in its worth as in the part of yourself that is given with it.

Natoe is purpose. Using what I have to do what I can--and the same goes for those around me. Canadians, gifted with academics and the luxuries of life in a developed world, give our own hands and our willingness to learn, to open our eyes, and to laugh at ourselves. The Thais give us patience, knowledge.

I can be a reluctant traveler. I tend to define the past few years of my life by the places I've lived, the people I've met, and how I fit the lessons I've learned into my present definition of my life." I like searching for kindred spirits, and I try to keep my eye out for beauty along the way. I like to travel with a goal, a purpose, something to give everything I experience a context: "Can I do it alone? By only human powered means? Under a certain budget?" Whenever I feel like I need more life day to day, I want to travel. When I feel I need no life at all, I want to vacation. I don't like when I find myself somewhere in between the two: travel for the sake of traveling. I start to feel hopelessly restless, like when I spend too long thinking about my future, and making plans that seem too far away to reach.

Meg - The tsunami memorial sculpture in Ban Nam Kem isn't a place I thought I would ever end up. The tsunami in Thailand is a part of my history, yet it never seemed to invade my sphere of being as it might have. On December 26, 2004, I was 18 years old, enjoying my first Christmas at home after a semester away at university. I should have been old enough to register the toll on our world, yet I imagine I was too lost in my own, surrounded by the things and people I love most and unwilling to give away even minutes of my time with them. I can tell you about the moment I saw Princess Diana's car sprawled across the road, or how I spent 9/11 and the following days, yet I cannot recall any emotionally responsive memory to one of the greatest tolls in human life in my own history.

As you turn off the highway toward the memorial, you drive through lowlands. This area contained a number of open-pit tin mines, tin once being one of Thailand's more valuable exports, yet I am told buses feared to drive down it for fear of being robbed. The narrow road winds its way through seemingly random lots. Already the lush jungle has sprung back and the ocean view is obscured as we bump our way toward the sandy point that juts out into the sea. The air conditioning rattles out cool air and I don't know what I am looking for or what I should be expecting. I think I feel nervous, vaguely anxious, and definitely hesitant. As we pile out of the minivans it starts to rain. This isn't foreshadowing or ominous: the drops are warm and light, the kind of rain you can stand out in without getting wet or annoyed. It is still afternoon but the light has changed with the onset of the storm. If I remember it through my pictures I can tell you that it was sunset. The memorial sculpture itself is a long tunnel cut into the ground and pointing out into the ocean. To my left, poured concrete is cast as a cresting wave with a cascade of greenery tumbling from its lip and hanging nearly to the ground. The floor is hard, plain, dark and lined with deep gutters. It strikes me that if another wave were to hit, this formation may remain standing, the water draining into these trenches for days, back into the ocean.

Max - Being on the EDGE Thailand team has been the experience of a lifetime. We did so many cool things, like ride elephants and see Buddhist temples, and the sightseeing was fantastic, but it was not our main purpose on the trip. Our purpose was to immerse ourselves in the Thai culture and to gain a different perspective. We did so by constructing a concrete and mud hut at a small agricultural school in Northern Thailand. The labor at times was difficult, but worth it because it gained us the respect of many Thai students and teachers which in turn helped us all become friends. Getting closer to the Thais gave us the opportunity to realize how modest they are. I wish we could have spent more time in Natoe to hang around with Dome and his crew; I know for a fact we are all going to miss our Thai friends, though fortunately we can all stay in touch with Facebook. Living in Ban Natoe was beneficial for so for many reasons, especially experiencing the contrast between rich and poor. It was good for us to see how lucky we are in Canada, and I am very thankful for being accepted to the EDGE team.

Trevor - Although there are many factors that made the EDGE trip an eye-opening experience, two things stood out for me. I found the attitudes of our Thai hosts and fellow students truly inspiring. From the second we arrived at Ban Nate I was shown how welcome I was. The patience the Thais had with us was remarkable, whether when I couldn't figure out how to weave the basic pattern for a basket or when I knocked down part of a freshly laid brick wall, the Thais would just laugh and help me to fix my mistake. I was also impressed by how eager the Thais were to put the extra effort into interacting with us.

After the transition from Natoe to a luxury resort near Phuket I have noticed how much happier the people are in Natoe than at the resort. So although some of the luxuries we are used were missing at Natoe, I know that many of our EDGE team members prefer the Natoe lifestyle to the relaxing resort life.

The two lessons that have sunk in the deepest for me are how fast people that are complete strangers can become close friends and that the luxuries we are used to are not at all needed in order to live a happy life.

Olivier - My experience in Thailand could best be described as a fried egg. At first the trip was clear: we set out to build a hut in a rural mountain area. This was the white of the egg, because it took up the bigger chunk of the trip and is less nice tasting than the yolk. Enjoying Khao Lak was supposed to be the yellow bit of the egg. It was a much smaller chunk but tastes much better and has a smoother texture. But things didn't go that way. Sure, Khao Lk and the resort were nice but that is only the surface of what the experience was all about. At night in Natoe, before going to bed, was much different than Khao Lak. The physical feeling of comfort may not have been as high, but the feeling inside made me feel more comfortable. I found myself wondering what had happened to the egg. The yolk and the white had become completely mixed up and I couldn't recognize which was nicer. The materialistic luxuries of Khao Lak are just scratching the veneer of what our experience was all about. I think it's about going forgoing creature comforts, getting your hands dirty and getting to know people. All of these things seem intimidating at first, but are rewarding once you fully embrace them.

Calvin - After visiting some unique tourist attractions we stayed in Ban Natoe for ten eye-opening days. As we built the hut, I realized how happy our Thai friends were, even with so little. The average farmer makes less than $3 each day, and that made me realize how much we take for granted. After leaving Ban Natoe, we visited Khao Lak and saw how the 2004 tsunami damaged the lives of its inhabitants. After seeing a five member family huddled together on a curb to avoid the rain, it was humbling to think that the only difference between us is that they have been given fewer opportunities than I grew up with. The annual tuition for a student at the Ban Natoe Learning Centre is $400; it almost angers me to think that so many cannot afford this, while we casually spend that much in night or two at a hotel. More than anything, I believe this trip changed my ignorance into appreciation for what I have been given. With the experiences I have had in Thailand, I now believe it is my responsibility to do anything in my power to extend a hand to those less privileged. Monetary support is important: without it, we wouldn't have been able to do this project. However, the most enjoyable part of this trip was building relationships with the Thai students. Playing takraw with Dom, interviewing Dacha, and trying to speak Thai with Nit, taught me the meaning of joy, friendship and humility. Although we have the greater formal education, the Thais were able to teach us how to live our lives purposefully. When I get back to Shawnigan, I hope that I go through the day-to-day routine with a sense of wonder and appreciation for my blessings. I know the Thais will be doing the same.

Wikki - It was a surprise that Meg and I were both invited on this trip. When Jo asked us, she said, "Take some time and think about it." It took us all of two seconds to register before we said, "Yes! Wait: both of us?" and another two seconds to realize that yes, in fact, she was asking both of us.

I wasn't too sure about the idea of going to the same place that previous groups had been. I thought, if they were doing all this great stuff to help people, why not spread the help around? But hey, we were a late addition to the plan, and I was ready to roll with whatever that plan had come to be. But then I got to Natoe and it all made sense. This wasn't a single building we were constructing. It's much more and hard to explain. Ours was a building at a school that gives students the education and knowledge to not only better their own lives but also their families' lives and their communities. The school is only four years old, and Shawnigan has been there for three. Bonding, investment, partnership, friends, colleagues…you could pick any of these reasons for the EDGE trip to go back to Natoe each year. I try, but no words can describe the feeling I had there. So even though at the beginning I couldn't see why we were going back to the same place, I now can't think of a single reason why we wouldn't.

Kelsi - Being part of the EDGE trip provided me with incredible insights into another reality. With our ten days in Natoe I learned more about the Thai culture than I ever thought possible. I also learned more about myself in the process. It is impossible to contain my thoughts on Ban Natoe and my experience in only one word, such as "fun" or "amazing," because it was much more. From our first moments of being in Thailand we were welcomed by open arms complete acceptance into the bonds of an already formed friendship. The Thai students and teachers were always friendly and kind. Through the experience of working together toward a common goal, we made friends despite the language difference. It was a humbling experience to go into a place where nothing was taken for granted. Through learning about how they live and how hard they work to support not only themselves but also their families, I feel humbled in my own life. This trip gave me many opportunities I would never have been able to have, from riding an elephant and driving a motorbike to living alongside a community of Thai people. It gave me a reality shift and put my life in perspective. I hope to continue a long distance relationship with our Thai friends, and bring home with me the outlook on life that the Thai students have.

Giselle - Ban Natoe was amazing in the way that it allowed me to see things differently. I'm used to a standard of living that allows comfort and also, in some cases, indulgence. I really don't need a laptop, an iPod, a phone, a camera, a computer, a TV. These luxuries were highlighted in Ban Natoe where simplicity flourished. My emotions were mixed when I first arrived. I was stoked to begin the project which I truly believe is a chance of a lifetime, but I was also put off by the reduced level of comfort. Ten days without a normal toilet and a hot shower seemed at first a daunting idea. My first shower was definitely something I will remember, not only because it was freezing but also because it was very humbling. I have always recognized how spoilt I am through my possessions but never have I realized how much I really have by just being able to sleep in a sturdy house and to run a bath without having to tediously fill it up with a bucket. As time passed I became more accustomed and looked forward to showers, and squattees weren't so terrible. One thing I couldn't fully adjust to was the lack of laundry facilities. We were given laundry detergent but clothes still smelled sketchy afterwards and they dried crusty. Cleanliness is another luxury that I have learned to appreciate. Just looking at Ban Natoe was a good way of displaying the physical contrast between my life and that of those who live more simply, but talking with the people was what really established a sense of how different it is. They all have dreams that may not necessarily come true, whereas I have been give multiple opportunities to achieve. This does not mean they are unhappy; it is quite the opposite. They find joy in the littlest things and are rarely negative. It was really cute when I asked May what she disliked and she could not name a single thing, whereas I could complain for a solid hour. Just being in Ban Natoe and talking with the people was so legit. I can't explain how much I got out of it, but I can say that I want to gladly go back there today.

Rachel - On our first day in Thailand we visited the White Temple near Chiang Rai. It truly was one of the most amazing things I have ever seen. The whole thing was completely white, but what made it so unbelievably gorgeous was that is completely decorated with millions of square pieces of mirror. It made the whole thing gleam in the sunlight. Two weeks later, while tanning on the beach in Khao Lak, I was thinking about all my experiences on this amazing trip, and I decided that the white temple was like Thailand and that all the tiny shards of mirror were the small things that made it really special. I started to give a shard of mirror to each memory. The bucket showers and the squattees get one; I had no idea that roughing it (compared to life back in Canada) would be one of the most enjoyable things I have ever done. One piece goes to Fa and her cooking: some of the most delicious food I have ever eaten was in Thailand, like mango with sticky rice and pad Thai. I honestly think that rice should get its own piece of mirror because I have completely fallen in love with it. You would think eating it every day would be the most boring and repetitive thing, but thanks to Thailand I crave it 24/7. A piece goes to that gorgeous big orange sun in Natoe that showed up in the evenings. Another piece goes to the colors, sounds and smells of the night market in Chiang Mai. I could go on forever because Thailand is one of the prettiest places I have ever seen. Every single city, village, temple and market that we visited, especially in the north, gets a piece of mirror. And then there are the people. To give just one shard of mirror for the entire team on the EDGE trip would be way too small because they were all such amazing people, so every single person gets their own piece on the temple. The wacky conversations, endless games of “going on a picnic”, inside jokes and, of course, the mud fights will be something I will never forget. And like for my team, giving one piece for all the Thai students and teachers I met would be an understatement, because every single one of them was so kind and so much fun to be around. The Thais are some of the nicest people in the world. If we all had hearts like theirs, the world would be a better place. They have taught me so much and I will never forget that. Even the simplest memories, like the Thai girls teaching us a dance in the hut that we all shared, makes me want to jump on a plane and be back with them again. Now this white temple has an uncountable number of pieces of mirror (although, yes, I do have many, many memories) but there’s a lot of Thailand that I haven’t seen yet. I would love to go back to the country I have completely fallen in love with because of this trip.

David - Two things struck me most about Ban Natoe. The first was the difference between the locals' income and a normal income in Canada, because a skilled worker is paid only 80 baht per day (about $2.50 Canadian). To a certain extent it is relative, because the tuition for one student at Ban Natoe is about $400, which means that our Shawnigan tuition is 100 times more expensive. These numbers did not make me realize how lucky I am--I already know that I live an extremely fortunate life--however, they did make me appreciate how different is the hill tribe mindset toward money and possessions when compared with western culture. This led me to my second realization about Ban Natoe, which was that the people in the village were exceptionally kind and skilled. Despite the language barrier the Thai students continually tried to engage us in conversation and find out more about us. As time went on everyone on the team became friends with almost all of the Thai students, despite the language barrier. I also realized that if our positions were reversed, and they were guests in Shawnigan, that there is no way I would have engaged with them to the extent that they engaged with us. By the end of my time in Ban Natoe, I found that while the Thai students may appear to have less than we do, the reality is the complete opposite.

Ronna - The trip to Thailand was an incredible journey to a far away place. It was much different than I imagined it would be: I thought we were going to go to some small village in the middle of nowhere, quickly build a hut and then leave. However, this was not the case; in fact, because of the endless rain we didn’t even finish the hut. What we did manage to do, however, was bond. Not only with the Canadians in our own group, who are like siblings now, but with the Thai students as well. It was incredible how, in a few short days, we managed to become close friends with these people who couldn’t be more different than us. They spoke a different language, lived different lives and wore different clothes, but we were all still the same on the inside. It was on this trip that I first felt the power of a smile, the ability for it to smooth over the gap between two people. On the first day if someone had asked me if I there was a chance I might cry when I left I would have said never but, alas, the final day came and tears streamed from all our eyes as we waved out the van window until our friends were out of sight. As I sat in the van mourning the loss of all the faces of people whom it was unlikely I would ever see again, I was able to reflect on just how amazing an experience it had been. I am so blessed to have had this opportunity, and I am a better person for it.

Tala - There is no simple explanation or description of my experience in Thailand. It's like trying to describe the nachos with 26 different toppings at my favourite restaurant in Banff. Each ingredient is completely different and they may sound completely random and un-complementary until you've experienced them but somehow they complete each other and create something that you never could have imagined or expected. I'd heard many descriptions of the Thailand E.D.G.E. trip "ingredients" but it wasn't until I'd tasted the flavours for myself that I really understood. From the Thai massage on my first night in Thailand to scooping sand from the bottom of the river bed two days later, each part of the trip was unique in its own way. One thing that really surprised me was the relationships I made with the Thai students. I got so used to spending time with them everyday and having them ask me "Nam, noy mai?" Their smiles and enthusiasm were always something I could count on and, even more importantly, they were always genuine. Motorcycles and squattees were both new experiences for me and they are memorable elements from the time spent at Natoe. I'll also always remember that very first bucket shower and how amazing it felt. Speaking of different flavours, the food was incredible. It was some of the best food I've ever eaten in my life and the fact that it was made on a propane tank under a tarp just shows what we really need in order to live comfortably. None of the restaurants we've been to since leaving Natoe--well, apart from maybe the buffet at the Meridian-- can compare to Soifa's cooking. The part of the trip that surprised me the most was how hard it was to leave Ban Natoe. Even though I'd heard a lot about the trip from last year's EDGE students, no one ever warned me how difficult it would be to leave Natoe Learning Centre. Saying goodbye to the students there was so much harder than I ever could have imagined. I feel like our time there went by way too quickly and I wish I could go back and do it again but make it last longer. It's amazing how close to people you can get in 10 days when you don't even speak the same language. There were so many different experiences of this trip and I'll always remember the different ingredients that made up the recipe for this wonderful adventure, but most of all I'll remember the students at Natoe Learning Centre and how grateful I am for everything that they shared with me.

Calvin - After a long night of jet-lagged-induced incognizance, I woke up at the bright and early hour of 11 a.m. After breakfast, almost everything felt normal; however, something seemed like it was missing. Although waking up for 5:45a.m runs in Baan Natoe wasn't the conventional idea of spring break, I had an uncanny feeling that I would miss those dawning hours in Thailand. I went for a run this afternoon to replace the empty feeling, but it only exacerbated the situation. I ran to my favourite lookout point in West Vancouver and saw the vast landscape crowded by high-rises. I ran past the gorgeous house of Jim Pattison, one of the city's billionaires. It made me think of the huts that the Thais live in, sharing cramped quarters with several other people. When I had a hot shower to take away the cold bite from the run, I thought of how awful the bucket shower felt during a cold rainfall in Baan Natoe. After drying off and sitting by the television, I realized that I won't be able to shake this peculiar feeling of missing the Thais' lifestyle in Baan Natoe. They didn't have anything that trumped our homes, education, or possessions; however, they had a sense of joy and reliance upon each other that I had never seen before. They cultivated their own food--the students couldn't afford to pay their tuition otherwise. When they worked, they slogged away without complaint until the job was finished. No matter how many informal breaks we Canadians took, they managed to keep their heads down and stay motivated. At nights we would have cultural exchanges, which usually involved many failed attempts to communicate with the Thais, but it didn't matter how much they could understand; they simply laughed at the situation. Some never stopped smiling--no words were needed to explain the happiness they emitted upon us. When Mr. Robertson asks the students what type of school we want to attend, I will forever think of the Baan Natoe Learning Centre. The attitudes that the Thais felt towards work, study, and community have altered my life completely. When I want to complain about the amount of homework I receive or the lunch made for us, I will remember the Thai students; although they have been given so many less opportunities, they have hearts that allow them to find joy in any situation. I'm forever thankful for the experience I received, and I hope I can live by the examples that the Thais displayed for us.

Vivian - So, I'm sitting here in my living room at 3 am (thank you jetlag), trying to come up with some sort of explanation or phrase that could come even close to summing up what I think has been the best trip I'll ever take and, to be honest, I'm drawing a blank. I don't think there are enough words in my (or even Mr. Connolly's) vocabulary to describe any moment on this trip. When I first heard that I had made the EDGE team, all these expectations, hopes and dreams rose into my consciousness, building the experience up before I had even experienced it. I pictured the place, the scenery, the laughs, the games and even the people, all the while knowing that there was no way that any trip could live up to my daydreams. Now that I look back, I realize I had everything so completely backwards, I am even a little ashamed for being so naive. My daydreams now pale in comparison to the incredible memories engraved into my mind and heart. The place was incredibly beautiful (even in the rain), the laughs never ending and the people too wonderful for words. In Ban Natoe, I found myself surrounded by an unbreakable wall of warmth, kindness and smiles. It was a place which, although half way around the world and filled with people I could barely talk to, felt like home. Now when I say it felt like home, I don't mean that in a physical sense. Our first showers were proof enough that life in Ban Natoe was going to be completely different. No hot water, flickering electricity and many mosquitoes were accommodations I had not been used to before this trip, and ones I had not known I could live without. Now that I've experienced it, I would gladly give it all up just to go back again. I would begin to describe the people, but I miss them so much it may make me cry, so let's just say they were the warmest, most beautiful people I've ever known and leave it at that. For anyone who is thinking of applying for the trip and to those who make it, just know it's one of the best decisions you ever make and one you won't ever regret. I could have never predicted how incredibly lucky I would feel to have been chosen for this trip; it changed my life and I would give anything to go back.

Peter - The first EDGE trip, back in 2005, was planned as a one-off adventure; in fact, the EDGE Leadership Program itself was conceived as a direct result of that trip's success. To a person, I think the members of that team saw ourselves first and foremost as volunteers intent on doing good work, making a positive difference in other people's lives by getting our hands dirty in the tsunami rebuilding efforts. But within our altruism was a kind of arrogance based on an implicit belief--in some cases, an unconscious belief--that our expensive formal educations and our cutting edge technologies and our substantial material wealth had unquestionably equipped us to lead the less fortunate along the road to greater happiness and prosperity. Although it took me some time--perhaps more time for me with my particular brand of idealism--I eventually came to see that the impact of an EDGE trip has relatively little to do with the legacy of a finished project. The real value is found in the positive changes that take place in each participant, changes that shift our thinking and our relationships and our way of being in the world.

One of the things that many people discover on an EDGE trip is that formal education and material wealth are just tools and resources; they are not particularly valuable as ends unto themselves. They do not generate happiness and they do not generate wisdom. The smiling faces and the generosity of the hilltribe people who live in poverty, or the tsunami survivors who have lost all their worldly possessions, give us living proof, and in learning these truths it is the Shawnigan volunteers who gain most from the EDGE experience.

Steve Housser was the first person to confront me with the obvious question: "So how do you justify spending all that money to take a team to Thailand, when you could easily write a cheque for a fraction of the cost and just pay the Thais to construct the project on their own?" My answer was, and is, that we will only be able to calculate the full return on our investment when we can add up the lifetime contributions of all the EDGE team members, based on the extent to which those contributions can be traced back to their EDGE experiences.

I was surprised and honored when I learned that 15 hilltribe students and 9 Thai teachers would be returning for their second or third year of working on an EDGE project. Clearly it is not just Shawnigan students who gain from the collaborative experience, and so perhaps the calculation of our investment should also factor in the contributions of our Thai friends whose lives have been positively impacted by EDGE projects.

I have always been an advocate of experiential education: "I hear and I forget; I see and I remember; I do and I know." This most recent EDGE trip to Thailand was a wonderful and satisfying experience for me, working and playing and living with great students and teachers who have reinforced my faith in humanity and my confidence in the future.

Khop khun mah khup ~ PDY